Take a 2-3″ piece of decorative moulding and cut an inward-facing 45 degree angle in one end to match the baseboard. The baseboards have a slight angle to them, so I used scrap pieces of moulding under each side to make the frame corners line up. Unless you are 100% perfect in all of your measurements, the corners are going to be a little off. Once your paint is dry, you’re already going to notice a little bit of the aging. Pieces can slide a bit as the clamp is tightened, so readjust as necessary. If your picture length and width are not exactly the same, mark the back of your pieces with either “top/bottom” or “sides” so you can tell them apart when attaching. We bought raw picture frame moulding when we lived in Tuscaloosa to frame it, with the best intentions of making a frame…we attempted to cut it and it was an absolute disaster. Make your cut at that line and temporarily put back in place on your baseboard to ensure that it fits correctly. We put them on the raised part of the back of each baseboard to give us a little thicker wood to screw through.
I also went back with wood glue and painted a little into any gaps in the corners when the frame was laying upside down. Carefully lift the corners and glue each angle together with wood glue. 6 wood screws and small washers. You’re going to follow a similar process for the small (1″) piece of moulding. If you’ve cut your angles correctly, your frame ledge should still be even and your 1″ piece should still be straight when you line up the angles on the baseboard, but it doesn’t hurt to recheck it while you’re gluing. Once you’ve ensured that the top overhang is even all the way across, mark off where you need to cut your other 45 degree angle (on both the top and bottom of the decorative piece). Step 6: Sand down and even out the ends. With that in mind, I can determine that my frame width will go out 2-1/4″ past my 5×7 picture all the way around. We’re wrapping up this guide on how to build a picture frame, and really all we have left is to attach some hanging hardware.
All you need for this sort of project is the frame, some painter’s tape and spray paint in two different colors. You can do these two at a time, but I’d strongly recommend only doing the top/bottom at once or the sides at once. Repeat this three more times for the other sides of the frame. So, my canvas was 30 3/16″ – I rounded up to the nearest quarter inch and added an additional quarter inch (30.5″), added 16 (46.5″), and multiplied times four (186″) to figure out how much was needed. Once you have that measurement, round up to the nearest quarter inch and add a quarter inch – you’ll want a tiny bit of wiggle room, especially when everything is attached together. A few light taps from a rubber mallet will help on areas that need a bit of coaxing, but only tap lightly to tease the glass into the grooved slot. What you’ve done is created not only the mat for your artwork, but you will use that center piece to attach your artwork to for stability.
If you’ve read my blog for awhile, you’ve probably seen this painting hanging in our bedroom. We originally bought it when we lived in Tuscaloosa at a charity auction – it reminded us of our bedroom and we knew it would be the perfect focal piece hanging in between a window and a door on an empty wall. This frame makes me smile every time I walk in our bedroom now. Now that you have all the sizes you need, it’s time for the fun part — designing your frames! This is probably the easiest (and the most fun) part of the whole thing! Such a fun way to hang your printed pictures and create a conversation starter too! I used a wire picture hanging kit to hang this frame. You can DIY your own picture frames at a budget-friendly price. Here is a simple DIY frame with a Christmas theme.